A back story about me, so in my childhood I was always a sick child, suffering from pneumonia often, always have shortness of breath even when I’m not sick, would be admitted in the hospital and put on an emergency oxygen to help me breath. So even in school I was never given heavy tasks because teachers knew my condition, I couldn’t run or involve myself in sports so I would watch my friends play. This continued up to my secondary school, so I was never an active person. Years later that condition disappeared and I started being active in my adulthood, the reason why conquering Mount Kilimanjaro was such a big deal for me... This seemed like beating the odds and conquering my fears.

After ticking one of my bucket lists, that was climbing active volcanic mountain Oldoinyo Lengai (that’s a story for another time with full of lessons) my next bucket list was reaching the rooftop of Africa…I knew this journey was not a simple one it needed preparations physically, mentally and financially, but this was it! Finally, I’ve decided that I was going to do it. Lulu, I call her “my travel partner” one of my friends was also interested in achieving this lifetime goal, so I decided why not having more company so we can have this experience together? So, three friends joined Bahati, Brian and Hilda whom she could not travel due to work inconveniences.

A total of four, me, Lulu, Bahati and Brian whom is an experienced climber, set out to conquer the tallest peak in Africa, the great Mount Kilimanjaro through the oldest route of them all “the Marangu route” others call it “soda route” (don’t let the name fool you). Jokingly we called it “One man, three women show!”

Preparations

Because we had Brian, who has been on the mountain twice, once through Marangu route but could not make it, his journey ended in Kibo, but summitted through Machame route, it was very helpful as he was giving us the realities of what’s ahead of us, and even helped us to prepare physically with right endurance exercises as well as what to pack in order to stay warm during our climb.

My preparations started 3 months before, in June because we were set to climb at the end of September, 2022. It involved long walks probably 10 to 15 Kilometers three times per week, lower body especially leg exercises and core exercises. We were given heads up by Brian and guide that our walks during the climb will be from 6 to 8 hours a day, approximately of 8km to 12km per day. So, I needed to be fit physically at least and leave the altitude problem for the odds to decide.

I also prepared my mind, on what I was about to face, my mind needed to be strong to decide that I was going to make it despite the challenges I would face. Meditation really helped me, endurance exercises and at that time I was reading a book called “Man search for meaning” by Victor Frankl, which was a major contribution in helping my mindset incase of facing difficulties not only during the climb, but also in life. I had to find my why so that I can hold on to it incase I wanted to give up during the climb.

One month before, I realized that shit was getting real as I was shopping for the mountain gears. Bought my hiking boots, all insulating and layering clothes, wool socks and gloves, camel bag, back pack, hiking pants etc. Now I was ready for the journey ahead. A week before I had to go for a medical checkup, making sure I’m okay to do the climb. Results came I was okay. Did my final shopping, medical stuff (such as pain killers, antibiotic, massage oils etc) and some snacks that would help us during the climb.

The day arrived that we were waiting for, we reached Moshi a day before our climb, spent two days in Moshi town. A day before the guide lead came to check our stuff, its customary for a guide to check your bag before to make sure if you are carrying proper gears. There was other stuff we had to rent because I saw no point of buying as I will not use it again soon, stuff like duffel bag, summit gears, pole stick, poncho, sleeping bag (this is important to have for someone who likes to camp like me, but at a time didn’t have). There are places in both Moshi and Arusha that rent these stuffs and usually they take good care of them and clean them, so it’s safe to rent.

Day 1 – Hotel to Marangu Gate – Mandara Hut

We started our journey on 22nd Sep 2022 from the hotel to Marangu gate, full of excitement, and fun, with our crew vibing to different songs in the car, the crew was very charming and kind to us, they were going to be our family for the whole 6 days of our climb. We reached Marangu gate in the afternoon, our guide decided that we were going to have lunch at Marangu gate while doing all the necessary park procedures and check. We had met other group of people, foreigners, they were family a woman of 70 years just came from summiting and we talked of her experiences even exchanging Facebook usernames etc. She kind of shed the light of what we were about to experience and it was comforting.

We started our journey from Marangu gate after lunch, we started with a short prayer, it was a long journey awaited, especially for me. I knew I wanted to do these few years back and there I was, it was exciting at the same time scary! We started pole pole passing the rain forest, seeing monkeys on trees, some waterfall and streams, passing on small brigdes, a slight ascent enough to make you sweat while our guide explaining to us the history of Marangu route why is it nick named “soda route” in other words labelled as easy route. Again, I can’t comment on this as I haven’t experienced another route yet, so I’m saving this for later. We reached Mandara when it was dark around 7pm still excited, not so bad after all. We checked in at our room, it had 2 bunked beds, it was comfortable. We had dinner and it was a good one and satisfying. It was much colder at night, we slept.

Day 2 – Mandara Hut – Horombo Hut

Woken up by our waiter Ramaa, around 6am with a hot ginger tea, enough to get us out of our sleeping bags, I did not sleep the whole night, it was the anxiety and not used to sleep in cold plus the sleeping bag. We got ready for the day ahead of us, and ooh I forgot to tell you, there is no bathing while on mountain, you re just given hot water to wipe yourself in the morning and evening. So, after refreshing ourselves we went to the merci hall to have breakfast, meeting other people as well, most foreigners (I guess we were the only Tanzanian there (low key proud of ourselves), had really good breakfast, our chef did not disappoint. We had an incidence where I misplaced the room key, and it was found in my bag and everyone laughed at me, it was hilarious! After that we checked out of our room, and started the journey to Horombo Hut. Still with energy, excited but prepared with what’s ahead, we moved slowly, polepole to get our body to acclimatize, passing through the rainforest, the vegetation slowly changed entering moorland. Our leading guide Isaya and Allan doing great job at giving us the history and tales of Mount Kilimanjaro, passing through thick cold fog that is clouds seeing different flora species it was so fascinating, we were met by Ramaa, and some of our crew members with a thermos that containing ginger tea just before Horombo and they helped us with our back pack, that was so kind of them as we started to experience shortness of breath. That was like the best thing that to ever happen and expect when climbing Kili. We reached Horombo around 4pm. Checked in in our room rest and waiting for dinner.

Day 3 Horombo Hut – Zebra Rocks – Horombo Hut

This day was acclimatization day, as usual we were woken up by Ramaa, with hot water for freshen ourselves and hot ginger tea, after that we went at merci hall to eat, as usual our chef did not disappoint. After having breakfast, we head to Zebra rocks for acclimatization, which is a bit higher altitude than Horombo. Full of excitement and vibe dancing while walking we were having fun! It took us a couple of hours and came back during lunch, vibing to some Amapiano beats and Congolese music, we thought to ourselves, this is easy, we can do it! little did we know… So, we spent the rest of the day resting and fueling our bodies with food and water.

Day 4 Horombo Hut – Kibo Hut

Started our day with a wake-up knock from Ramaa bringing ginger tea, this was the start of a tough journey as we were informed by the guides, after breakfast we said our little group prayer, and started the journey to Kibo Hut. We passed polepole the last water point, taking a little breaks and sipping water, we eventually entered alpine dessert, air started thinning as the shortness of breath started to increase, passing through Saddle Area we could feel the altitude, it was very cold and windy and the same time sunny. We took a break at Saddle Area and had our packed lunch. Still excited with the vibe though our bodies were started to be weak. After lunch we continue slowly up to Kibo, as usual we were met with the crew helping our bags and with ginger tea, they were our saviors to be honest. Checked in around 4pm, we had to rest and wake up one time for dinner and go back to rest for the summit night. Shit was getting scarry now, as everyone was feeling the altitude, the headaches and nauseas, shortness of breath and heavy chest.

Day 5 Summit night

Around midnight, we were already prepared for the summit, ready to start, we said our little group prayer and start the night (I think we were the most spiritual group ever! Lol). We started our hike, polepole on the lose sand of Kibo peak, walking zigzag, the peak was very steep, seemed like long distance, but it was not, the steepness of the mountain, the cold thin air and the altitude made us feel that way. My hands and feet were getting cold whenever we took a break. My chest was heavy, felt like my body was failing me! Our guide Allan stopped and said that, “we all feel this way, not only you, so you need to tell your mind to keep going and don’t listen to your body”. That statement gave me new strength and I started to focus on me achieving the goal, I was actually meditating on one of the Bible verse, Philippians 4:13 “I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me” Still my favorite verse until today. After passing several famous stops we entered the famous brutal place called Jamaica. The area is steep and full of rocks so you need to watch your steps while climbing. We continued to feel the altitude, we all had headaches, heavy chest and shortness of breath. Bahati and Brian were so nauseas and vomited around Jamaica. Jamaica was very brutal both physically and mentally to all of us, I started cursing the mountain (don’t judge me, lol) I then later apologize to it lol… Apart from the hardship of the climb, the sky looked really beautiful with all the stars and we could see the towns of Moshi below with lights and even Kenya side. It was painfully beautiful experience. Dawn came while finishing Jamaica, it was another spectacular view for us witness, the sunrise over Mawenzi peak! We all stopped to look at nature grandiose performance, just wow! It was amazing beautiful! After few minutes we continue and reached Gilman’s point. Finally, a little bit of relief as we entered the crater rim. Bahati and Brian were fast movers then came me and Lulu at a bit distance slowly at our pace reached Stella point, the final point before Uhuru peak. At least at this point I had hope that I’m already there, and it was morning around 8am. As we continued and there, I was reaching Uhuru peak, I was happy! I felt like I’ve beaten the odds, it felt like my body did not let me down, I did something I could have never done during my childhood. I went and just thanked God (I had to pray a little bit, I felt even closer to God at this point) few minutes Lulu came last crying telling us she was about to give up at Stella point and Isaya, the leading guide pushed her up to here, It was very emotional moment at the same time hilarious. So, after taking so few photos and praying and vibing to some few songs, we started our descent to Kibo Hut. Although it was hard still but a bit easy, as we are coming from higher altitude, to lower altitude so oxygen increase as we are going down. After passing Jamaica we were taking advantage of loose sand to slide down with it, so it was a bit easy and fun although we had dust all over us, but it was worth it. Around 1 pm to 2pm we reached Kibo Hut. Satisfied with our brutal experience we had lunch and then started our way back to Horombo for overnight. Journey back was so energetic, with lots of memorable stories of our climb. In no time we reached Horombo. Checked in the room, freshen ourselves form all the dust and had dinner and slept. At least I slept this day.

Day 6 Horombo Hut – Marangu gate

Woke up with a heavy chest, signs of pneumonia. Bahati game me erythromycin and my guide booked me on an ambulance. After breakfast I had to be rushed down. So, I left the rest of the group descending down. We met at the gate around 4 pm, we took some pictures, had late lunch and we were taken to the hotel and to be handed over our certificates. I could not wait to finally take a shower after 6 days of not showering.